Day One Hundred Fourteen through Twenty-Three

This is probably the longest period of time I've let pass without blogging, so now I'm really playing catch up. I've missed it but the longer I go, the easier it seems to be to pass the opportunity by to do some reflection. There are times when it's almost physical for me to reflect and think about the things that are going on in my life, which isn't actually much. My need for a simple life is great though. If distraction persists for longer periods of time, the more difficult it becomes to get back on track and submit to the needs and desires for the enjoyment of living - just being.

We've been in the middle of a big push to get our front deck done with the help of the youngest son. He's done a fabulous job with little input from us as far as construction is concerned. Designwise, I gave him my vision and he more or less ran with it. I couldn't be more pleased. He's about 3/4 of the way finished and gave it all he could, working in the dark, before the snow started falling Friday night. Argggggggg! I am not ready for the snow, and right now it's falling hard - big flakes coming in different directions. It's funny, I'm looking over my neighbor's roofs and the snow is coming in a bit sideways. It's falling straight down in my yard, and next door, it's falling at an angle just opposite of the stuff falling on the street just below us. It's very pretty and tranquil - it almost seems like it's dancing to the music I have playing, swirling this way and that - but I'm just not ready for it. Maybe I just need to sit and realize that it is there for me to enjoy and relish if I so desire. Everything has a meaning and the meaning I place on it can help me through the day, the hour, the minute, if I so choose to allow the experience to bring me joy instead of fueling disappointment.

I am glad I went out yesterday and did all my Thanksgiving food shopping. I've purchased an organic turkey from our local butcher and it better be good as it cost me three times as much as a regular big box store turkey would! I also bought a turkey breast from Safeway and I plan to brine both, so we'll get a comparison and also more turkey for sandwiches. I was in a bit of a panic at Safeway while looking for fresh sage in the produce section. Last year all the grocery stores ran out and, of course, I had waited until the last minute to purchase it. So, this year I was bound and determined to get my sage. I immediately headed over to herbs and could feel my heart sink as I rummaged through the plastic packages looking for the "Fresh Sage" label. None. Fortunately, the produce guy saw my distress and asked me what I was looking for (I had totally decimated his tidy rows of packages). I said, with the look of horror in my eyes, "SAGE," as he wheeled his little produce cart toward me. As he got closer, he said, "How many would you like?" I was ecstatic as I cannot do without my crisped sage leaves on top of my yams - no marshmallows here. I felt like Fagan with his fingerless gloves clutching my sage bundles and gently tucking them into my cart - I think I began humming If I Were A Rich Man as I snuck away.  Deep fried herbs are a delicacy and sage is right up there in the must have category. This year I'm going to try browned butter and crispy sage leaf gnocchi if I'm not too rushed with the rest of the feast. I do have several dishes prepared. I made four miniature loaves of bread on Sunday, broth for the turkey gravy, and pureed the roasted sugar pie pumpkins. I'll probably get the pastry for the pies done today and maybe even the stuffing and yams. That way, I'll just have to cook and mash the potatoes, put the turkeys in the oven, stir fry the brussel sprouts and cook the green bean casserole. I'm sure I've forgot something, but it'll come to me. Looking forward to staying home and an intimate dining experience with my very favorite people. Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Day One Hundred Nine through Thirteen

This is the first day I've been alone in the house since our vacation ended and, I must say, it feels good. I'm a bit down after spending four days at St. Mary's Art Center with some friends and acquaintances. Beautiful mountain air, sunshine and picturesque surroundings make for a relaxing experience. Even though I did produce two paintings which I am rather satisfied with, I just don't do well being around other women I don't seek out as regular companions. I find I have problems dealing with other's idiosyncrasies. It's better for me, now more than ever, to spend my time with people whom I have an intimate relationship with as I don't tend to notice things about them that may bother me. In other words, I guess I need to focus on the times I can be with my close friends and family and remind myself that these are the people who mean the most to me - those who I have the energy to expend my efforts toward, building even stronger relationships with and learning to love and appreciate on a deeper level. I feel like I neglect those who mean the most to me when I am around other's who I have problems tolerating. It's something I've tried to work on and, at times, I have been successful in doing just that, but for the most part I tend to revert back to the same level of intolerance that is deeply ingrained in me. Although maybe this time I have finally realized it's futile for me to continue trying and really, why am I challenging myself to achieve something that may not be in me. Why I don't just accept acknowledging those who I am comfortable around and skip the pretense of enjoying the rest, is beyond me. Maybe this realization will set some roots. Thank God for the good friends I do have and work to keep those friendships lasting and meaningful. I guess it's pertinent to the old adage about spreading oneself too thin which applies to people as well as activities.

Day One Hundred and Eight

It feels real good to have the pastels in my hand again. I have several photos from Scotland that I intend to use as subjects, but right now, I'm still using the photos of Italy for subject matter. I began a picture of Lucca - buildings and roofs - and decided to just take my time, not rush myself and don't expect a masterpiece after having been away from the chalks for a very long time. The subject matter has inspired me and I must say, the result is going together very well so far. It takes awhile to get back into the groove and just remembering where your colors are in the chalk trays is a challenge. Once I get back into identifying the colors I like to work with, color selection seems to be a rather natural process. I do know what colors I gravitate to. It's also a welcome relief to be with my friends and get some girl talk in. The relationship I have with several close friends I wouldn't trade for anything. I value them so much and am so fortunate to have these women in my life. I have demonstrated my appreciation by bringing back six pounds of assorted fudge from York, England, for us to enjoy this evening. I see that there are several pieces missing already! I did tell them they had to eat their dinner first but being the self-indulgent women they are, and me also, I can hardly blame them.

Day One Hundred and Seven

I'm still trying to recover from my jet lag as it seems I am ready for bed at about 7pm and then ready to get up at 5am or so. I guess that's not so bad, getting up in the morning is so nice when you have the opportunity to watch the sun rise and wait for the birds to awake and start their feeding frenzy in the yard. I did get all our Scotland photos processed and on my website, so I guess I'm ahead of the game but still feel like I have several more self induced projects to finish. I have been going through the Scotland photos on a regular basis just to reflect on the great time we had. Coming home is always a downer for me so I've decided to head up the Virginia City and St. Mary's Art Center for a four day retreat with some quilting friends. I won't be quilting however, the photos of Scotland have really motivated me to paint - so that's what I'll be doing.

Day One Hundred and Six

I don't know exactly why and probably won't spend much time trying to figure it out, but I grabbed my favorite photo of my father and felt compelled to sit with him for awhile. I can look at that picture and remember every little thing about him. The soft folds of his face, his smooth brow even though he was 78 years old and his salt and pepper hair (more black than grey) and how it was always neatly coiffed. My father had big bushy eyebrows that were a big part of his smile. And Dad always smelled so good. He had a large Adam's apple and his hands were gnarly but had a wonderful choreography about them. His smile was warm and his laugh infectious, especially the little impish grin that always accompanied the laugh. I'm just thinking that these are the things that make people alive. It's in the knowing, touching, laughing with and crying with, that give life to memories. I can look at pictures of my grandparents, but not having actually experienced their essence, I cannot know them. My father I did know, my brothers and sisters I do know, my husband, sons, and friends, I have touched and felt the life coursing through them. They have shared it with me. I think I underestimate the importance of the direct interactions I have with those around me. So many times, I end up spending so much time trying to figure out my legacy and don't realize that it's here right now, in the day-to-day encounters with all those people who are important to me. Legacy does not have to be tangible nor measureable, at least not to the person who owns the legacy. My father's legacy is in my hands, my eyes, my hair and the blood that courses through my veins. His legacy is in the hugs I can still feel and the many things we did together. He gave me the ability to laugh and get pleasure out of simple things - I can still hear him laugh at the Coyote and Roadrunner cartoon which would make me laugh too, more at him laughing at it. He gave me his sense of humor along with many other personality traits that I discover as I get older. As I see these things in myself, I know my father even better. I miss him, yes, but he left me with many, many cherished memories of a man who did the best with what he had and I can only hope he was happy - I think he was.

Day One Hundred Five

The walks down by the Carson River have really helped me get over the jet lag. It seems I have much energy in the morning, am ready to hit the hay at about 8pm, and then wake up about 3:30am ready to get up. But these past couple of days have moved the schedule a little closer to normal. I do like getting up to see the sunrise, however. Bob and I have been on a strict regimen of oatmeal and toast, so it's good that I've been getting up early to get it together. We ended up eating a lot of full English breakfasts as they were part of our bed & breakfast lodgings so, to counteract the mass consumption of eggs, hopefully the oatmeal with do the trick. I must admit though, I do love to have a full breakfast of eggs in the mornings and only do it when we vacation. Their eggs are incredible - the yolks look like pumpkins - and oh, how delicious. Of course, I heard that whiskey helps with cholesterol buildup and we drank plenty of that! And no, we did not come back with any bottles, I'll leave that up to anyone who needs a Christmas gift suggestion from me, Caol Ila.

I invited both the boys to come for dinner last night. The duck I cooked turned out luscious and we had roasted carrots from the garden along with some couscous seasoned with sauteed raisins and cabbage, with herbed goat cheese added when warmed. Homemade bread and butternut squash soup, also harvested from the garden, along side. It was nice to talk to Jay and hear about his days, but I missed Eric's presence and am anxious to see him. I'll just have to schedule another dinner I suppose.

Day One Hundred Three and Four

I've now had plenty of time to ponder the holiday abroad. I was glad to get home but in a different sort of way than most, I believe. The sights, sounds of smells of Nevada are wonderful in the Fall and we came back to some above-average temperatures and still in the full regalia of Fall color. I was back but somehow, not home.  If someone offered me a return ticket today, I would be packing. How can you not love a country whose road kill is ring-necked pheasant? I'm already pacing the house and not garnering any satisfaction from thinking about an activity that might just give me some temporary relief from my separation anxiety. I do look forward to seeing the boys - maybe that will bring me to grips with my present reality.

You can see my Scotland/England pictures by visiting http://scottishhighlandadventure.shutterfly.com/.

Day One Hundred and One

We spent the morning on an unhurried drive back to London, saying goodbye to all the wonderful sights that England is capable of producing. There were no stops, except for lunch, as it was good just to reflect on the times spent together in this wonderful, magical place. I'm never anxious to leave. I think Bob was ready to get back to the familiar and we headed home without incident. Many times we just sat and held hands - no words necessary.

Day One Hundred

When Bob and I travel we try to eat a good breakfast, skip lunch and have an early dinner. That way, we get the most walking and sightseeing in as possible. This tends to have another effect - the more we exercise, the more we can eat at dinner! It's great to be able to go to a nice restaurant and order a bottle of wine with our meal and actually finish the food and the wine. Tonight was no exception. Had a marvelous full English breakfast and then walked from our hotel (The Grange in York which I highly recommend)through Bootham Bar and right into York Minster. The sun was just coming in through the stained glass windows on the east side and we were able to have the whole place to ourselves. Very peaceful and awe inspiring as York Minister is probably one of the most sun lit, expansive cathedrals in all of Europe. It feels so modern and yet is so ancient. It's foundations are Roman and Norman which you can see by touring the below ground level excavations. We then spent the rest of the day shopping and museum hopping. We also got to walk some of the ramparts and climbed Cifford's Tower. I was able to snap a wonderful photo of York Minister and the walled area of York from the top of the Tower. The only purchases we made today were confined to a book Bob bought for the plane ride home and I was enticed by a shop keeper to sample some fudge which I was gawking at through the shop window and ended up with a couple of pounds of different flavors to bring home to my hommies.

With my package of sweet indulgence under my arm, we walked down to an Italian restaurant for our last dinner in York before heading off to London tomorrow morning. Great meal, great bottle of wine, a few chunks of fudge, and we were ready to get back to the hotel. We were the only ones in the restaurant, as it was still pretty early for diners on European dinner schedules, except for a little old Englishwoman sitting behind us who came in with her shopping bags and had a treacle pudding and a hot chocolate. Just before she left, putting on her overcoat, scarf and hat, she came over to apologize for intruding, asking us if we were on our honeymoon. I smiled heartily and informed her that we had actually been married for 30 years. She said she had been watching us, even though she could only see Bob's back, but had a full view of my face as Bob and I talked during our meal. We were both very flattered and talked with her for several minutes before she excused herself and left for home - a native Yorkshire woman. How wonderful that she shared her observation with us.

Day Ninety-Eight and Ninety-Nine

I didn't anticipate how easily we adapted to driving on the opposite side of the road than we do in the States. I experienced a bit of intrepidation when we decided to actually rent a car and drive around Scotland but we did just fine, especially with Bob at the wheel. I was the navigator with reading glasses at the ready and map neatly folded in my lap to display just the section of the map that we would find ourselves in at any one time. We did end up back in Edinburgh (by accident) and were pleasantly surprised when we made it through with no problems. After that, our think our confidence levels were pretty high. The only thing I didn't want to do was try to drive at night. So, with that in mind, we headed toward York with one night in between without any prior reservation for sleeping arrangements. If we saw a sign for something we thought we might like to see, there we went and when we hit Berwick on Tweed for lunch, we ended up at an Indian restaurant - Villa Spice - that was absolutely incredible. Bob had Sag Duck with saffron rice, I had Bhuan Gnosht and garlic Nan. After enjoying our find, we walked the town a bit. The whole journey was a blast and after leaving Berwick we ended up taking mostly coastal roads, we had no idea that the impending sunset would be so beautiful along the shoreline. As the sky grew darker, we decided to look for a bed and breakfast so that we wouldn't be driving at night. We pulled into the Boat House Inn right along the shoreline of the very small village we found ourselves in and were told that there was a bed and breakfast right down the road, within sight. So, we pulled up, knocked on the door and were greeted by a delightful couple who had just returned from the Dominican Republic after a two week vacation. Hazel was so cute, a bit nervous that she had her vacation laundry drying everywhere, but she and Maddy were more than accommodating. It was a great little place, very clean and every need was anticipated by the stock of items in the room. The shoreline was just across the street and we had a clear view of the two little fishing boats anchored just out past the surf. The full English breakfast we had in the morning was the best yet. We appreciated their friendliness and all the suggestions they made for our drive south the York. When we told Hazel and Maddy about the nice dinner we had at the Boat House Inn and how friendly and talkative the owner and his wife were, they were so surprised as the owner is not usually so friendly. We talked and talked while we had our dinner at the bar and found it rather revealing when the owner, who was also the bartender, likened he and his wife to Basil Faulty and his wife. It was so true though. Bob and I laughed and laughed when he and his wife had a couple of interactions while we were there. Very nice couple and great food. We pulled away the next morning satisfied that we had experienced the real England.

We took our time getting to York via some very fun backroads - barely one lane - and when one of the roads we chose to travel on ended up diverted, we had a late lunch stop at a place called the Carpenter Arms Inn. I'm going to have to set the guy straight who said English food is relatively bad, because we have had some incredible meals of which today's was one of the very best. Bob started with a Yorkshire blue cheese and walnut salad and had baked salmon on top of a potato mash for his entree. I had a pumpkin curry soup that was so creamy, with just a hint of curry so that the pumpkin taste was still the dominating flavor, followed by Mount Grace roast beef, Yorkshire pudding and small, baked new potatoes, all swimming in a heady beef gravy. I don't know what it is, but the potatoes they grow here are so very tasty and extremely creamy. We were very happy campers. So onward we went on our journey to York, following the signs to Rievaulx Abbey, one of my very favorite places. After winding our way through the up and down roads of the Yorkshire Dales, we came upon Rievaulx sitting in the beauty of the small, narrow Rye Valley, full of trees adorned with the colors of Fall, the green of the pastures resplendent with grazing black faced sheep, all through a soft foggy mist. It was magical, as Rievaulx usually is. At it's height, the Abbey housed over 600 monks and the extensive ruins make you feel as though, if you stood still enough, you could still hear their chants and prayers. It's humbling to see the skeletal remains of the this once impressive community, with the holy water vessels still protruding from the walls. Just touching them with my hand as though I was dipping my fingers in their contents, sent shivers up my spine. I love it there and could repeat the visit many, many more times. I would be content to know my ashes could rest there someday.

We had about an hour at Rievaulx as the park was closing and dusk was upon us. I ended up driving out of the Rye Valley, up and down through the Dales once again but this time it was dark. It was quite an experience and now I feel like a seasoned English countryside driver. We made it easily into York, found a hotel quickly and walked the streets near the Minster. There is so much to do here and I'm looking forward to showing Bob around in the morning.

Day Ninety-Seven

Scotland is truly an amazing place. There is so much variety in the landscapes of this ancient land. There are times when I am reminded of the vistas in Nevada, as the mountains here seem to rise right out of the flat valleys, and even though the tallest mountain in Scotland is only a little more than 3,000 feet, they still seem to rise to the sky. The rolling hills and farms are much like the hills and valleys of Northern California although less inhabited and the buildings are mainly of stone and much older. We took a drive along the Fife coastal scenic route and were impressed by the small villages and rocky shoreline, as well as the small, rock walled ports of little fishing boats. Very colorful. The crab baskets stacked in careless piles along with corked fishing nets strewn here and there was a homage to a simple and yet treacherous existence that requires a lot of mental and physical stamina only years of tradition can supply. Tea and coffee in a small shop along a warf, a stop at what I would call a gourmet food farm (frozen meals prepared for take out, their own butchered meat artistically wrapped in freezers along with vegetables that looked like they were ready for a photo shoot and much jam and jelly. I know where I would be shopping for food on a daily basis, and all in an old stone barn that probably housed farm animals at some time in its history. It was a visual delight and a gastronomes paradise.

Beautiful sunset on the water flanked by small villages - many pictures taken - and back to our hotel for our last night in Scotland.

Day Ninety through Ninety-Six

It's very difficult to discipline myself to blog while I'm having such a great time. It doesn't help to be utterly exhausted either when we finally get back to the hotel each night. I don't know where to begin. After having a couple of days exploring Edinburgh and sharing a wonderful dinner with a very dear person, John, and his friends Nancy and David, at The Witchery, we felt as though we had already experienced the best of what Scotland has to offer. Our Witchery dinner was perfection and the company made the evening sweep by. After saying our goodbyes and marveling at the fact that even though John lives only 225 miles away from our home in the States, we had to travel to Edinburgh, Scotland to have dinner together, Bob and I walked arm in arm through the brisk night flanked by a full moon. As John was leaving for the Lake District the next morning with Nancy and David and Bob and I were headed to the Isle of Skye the next day as well, we did part knowing that we'd both be in contact again before our journeys in Scotland were at an end.

The Isle of Skye excursion was part of a small Highland Experience Tour program which put us in a small bus/van with 11 other people. It was amazing to see the variety of people who come to this area to vacation. Of all 13 of us, only five were English speakers. There were three people from China, 2 from Switzerland, one from Australia, one from South Korea, and two from Turkey. We all got along so well - no one knew when they were being insulted, nor did anyone complain about any body else. It was a delightful trip as far as fellow trekkers were concerned and the tour afforded us a beautifully diverse cross-section of what Scotland has to offer. I just kept thinking how much my son Eric would love this Country - fishing and hiking is what it's all about and the endless beauty that surrounds you while you do either absolutely takes your breath away. It was a treat to be able to sit and look out the window of our little van just listening to the stories our driver most adeptly relayed while we wound our way through the countryside - Jed had a great sense of humor, typical Scottish dry, subtle wit, plus many wonderful Scottish tales. After three days and two nights on the road, we landed back in Edinburgh in the late evening of the third day feeling we had quite an education and saw some marvelous sites. We even stayed one night at a very comfortable hotel right on the shores of Loch Ness but alas, we did not see the beast! If I had of had a couple more Caol Ila whiskies, I might have caught a glimpse. That's another thing - this Scottish whiskey has become a real must have. We were also fortunate enough to be able to beg our driver to stop at a small distillery and take a tour which he did without question. It seems it hasn't been difficult to substitute a bit of the barley water for wine on this trip. All I can say is smooooooth.

We are now staying at a large estate in Kirkcaldy and just settled in after having a wonderful dinner in their dining room (of course, after we had our double shots while enjoying a duck breast and goose liver pate terrine). Bob had pheasant and I had gorgonzola-hazelnut gnocchi both accompanied with honey roasted carrots and turnips. I think all the pheasant we saw on the side of the roads and in the fields, not to mention the ones that almost flew into the van as we were driving along, when we were on our countryside tour gave us a good hankering for some of the wild bird. It was a dinner we won't soon forget.

The area we are staying in is the home of many of my paternal grandmother's people. Kirkcaldy, Dunfermline, Wymess and Dysart are all along the coast just across the bay from Edinburgh. It was wonderful to drive right into Kirkcaldy on Nicol Street which is a family name. We went into the Kirkcaldy Museum and saw many of the family names there - Nicol, Bell, Hog - I can't wait to get to the cemetery tomorrow. There is also a research center in Edinburgh (Scotland's People Centre) where you can have access to a researcher for two hours while they assist you in finding your relatives. No need to call ahead and no reservations necessary. You just walk in. The only problem is, as I've just found out about this service, they're only open Monday through Friday and I'm not sure I'll be able to pop in. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to come over by myself for a couple of weeks! Anyway, I do plan to do some looking around this area as we have three days and two nights here before we begin our journey back to London. And, did I mention we rented a car? I already had to remind Bob to stay on the left side of the road. Cross your fingers and say a little prayer.

Day Eight-Eight and Eighty-Nine

We opted to travel by bus from Leeds to Edinburgh just because we thought it would be nice to see some of the countryside. The trip took two more hours than by train but we were both happy to have chosen this mode of transportation as we did get to see more of the rural landscape than we would have by train. The city I was most impressed with was Durham and would definitely make that a stop at some point, possibly on another excursion. We were very tired when we arrived in Edinburgh at about 4:30 pm and had to get our bearings in order to find our hotel. After walking a bit through a very brisk wind and different weather than we had encountered elsewhere, we hailed a cab to get to our hotel which ended up to be just a few blocks away, but totally uphill. It was worth the 3.65 pound cab fare. The hotel is very fine and we have a splendid view of the surrounding old town area. Edinburgh Castel is right around the corner, as are all of the other places of interest. After setting up, we took a stroll to find a restaurant as all we had eaten for the day was the full English breakfast before checking out of our hotel in Leeds. We choose a small cafe, Le Sept, around the corner from our hotel and I ended up sending my dinner back - rabbit stew that looked like the rabbit regurgitated it - mainly because it was inedible due to the amount of salt the chef used. I would not have been so bold to send it back if I wasn't akin to all the cooking shows, especially those that feature chef competitions. I think even though I find it hard to watch Ramsey's Hell's Kitchen - he is so mean and foul - I have learned a lot from his insistence on quality meals going out of anyone's kitchen. Even though I might disagree with how he goes about it, I now know how to be an empowered diner and am confident that I am doing the chef a service by letting him know the quality demanded by the public in order for an establishment to remain in business. I noticed that when Gordon Ramsey tries to rescue restaurants in trouble, his first questions involve asking chefs what the problems are. Most chefs, to their discredit, remain in the dark when it comes to knowing why their customers are dissatisfied and don't repeat bookings. If you don't let the chef know what is wrong, they will assume their meals are prepared properly and are appreciated by their customers. I can see how very important it is for a chef to get out of their comfort zone of the kitchen and speak first hand with their guests. For this, I must thank Gordon Ramsey.

After a good night's rest (even though I was waking up every hour to blow my nose), we started our day off with some much appreciated, hot and thick, Scottish porridge with fresh raspberries and a drizzle of honey, along with some brown toast and, of course, tea and coffee. It was just what we needed considering we got a late start and it was rather cold and windy outside. There are many more Americans, it seems, in Edinburgh than in London, or for that matter, Leeds, and many more people in general in the small Castle area of this city. I also noticed that people here are not as friendly as in England. I don't feel as welcome here as I have in other areas of the UK.

After booking a 3 day tour of the highlands and Isle of Skye (2 nights on the Isle), we headed up to the Castle for a tour. I'm not sure I would do that again except for the wonderful 360 degree views. Not much of the Castle is open to visitors as it is actively inhabited for other functions and the museum area displays are rather confining and small. For instance, you walk through a maze of corridors and displays, packed in like sardines, just to get a glimpse of the Scottish Crown Jewels in one little room at the very end. It's almost as if there isn't really much to display at the Castle and so they make these rather elaborate walkthroughs to get to the real item of interest, and then you're done. The real highlight however, was the Whiskey Heritage Museum right outside the gates of Edinburgh Castle. I would strongly recommend the Gold Tour as you get to taste more whiskey at the end of the little barrel ride through the museum exhibit. I feel like I know quite a bit about a beverage that is really rather simple but has taken on many different forms and varieties. I hope it's medicinal as well, as I'm still fighting this head cold.

On to dinner at a local pub and wow, was it great. Not only did we get to experience a bit of the local rowdy crowd of footballers, but we also had a wonderful meal of Irish Stew for Bob and fish and chips for me. The fish was firm, flaky, moist and tasty with a light batter that was not drenched in oil. With a drizzle of brown sauce over the top, I was in fish and chips heaven. Good and cheap with a pint of Guinness, and nothing sent back to the chef this time. We were both very satisfied and are ready for another good night's sleep.